Rome: From a Blind Person’s Perspective By Tony Giles Tonythetraveller Rome, is the capital city of Italy. Vatican City, residence of the Pope, is a walled enclave within Rome. Italy’s capital is an ancient area where the Roman Empire began 2,800 years ago. Notable archaeological buildings, such as the Colosseum, Pantheon and the Forum Romanum ruins, bared witness to the vast civilization that existed centuries ago. Vibrant modern day Rome is a reflection of its 14th-16th century renaissance period, illustrated by the crowded Piazza Navona, Piazza Popolo and Piazza di Spagna, plus the Piazza del Campidoglio, re-designed by Michelangelo. The famous Trevi fountain, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and created by Nicola Salvi (1732), is another popular site for both tourists and locals. The 18th century Spanish Steps, by Italian architect Francisco de Sanctis, which lead to the lavishly designed French church Trinità dei Monti with magnificent views over Rome, is also another popular meeting place. The combination of stylish architectural extravagance, vast vociferous crowds and an important church, conjure a vivid picture of Rome, both during the renaissance and today.

However, what is the significance to a blind person? Indeed, even to someone daring to travel with sight loss?

The answers only become apparent once people realize that blind people might wish to travel or, in my case, journey frequently. I’ve spent the last thirteen years travelling solo around the world blind. This came from a desire to be independent and challenge myself. My girlfriend Tatiana, who I met through my website, is from Greece and is also totally blind. Since we both live in separate countries, we decided to meet in Rome for four days, as it is approximately half way between Greece and England. In addition, Tatiana is studying Italian and strongly desired to visit Rome.

On 18th July 2011, we met up in the arrivals area of Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci) airport. Rome has two international airports – the other is Ciampino. Most disabled people receive assistance when flying and are usually met at their destination. So, despite both Tatiana and I being blind, we found each other assisted by airport staff. They even helped us catch the airport train into Rome’s centre. A single ticket currently costs 14 Euros and the journey takes forty minutes. We discovered later that although the bus takes over an hour from the city to Fiumicino, a single ticket only cost 8 Euros.

I’d researched Rome’s attractions and hostel accommodations on the internet previously, with the help of a screen reading software called Jaws. Therefore, I roughly knew the directions to our reserved accommodation. We met an Australian couple on the train and they kindly assisted us to our hostel, as it was getting late and dark and there were many homeless and thieves loitering outside Termini train station. Once at the hostel, a second floor apartment up three flights of stairs and through several heavy doors, we settled in and asked directions to a nearby restaurant to sample Italy’s delicious cuisine. Tatiana and I both use long canes to negotiate streets, stairs and all other obstacles. We rely on the public, other travellers and hostel staff to help with directions to places and attractions. Travelling is a challenge which is often difficult, but most rewarding when successful.

Why do we travel? For the sounds, smells, food, music, historical interests we both share. But mainly to meet people and experience the culture.

The next morning we asked for directions to the nearest metro for the Colosseum, Rrome’s most famous building. We exited the hostel, turned left and walked along the uneven pavement until we found the first street on our left. We quickly discovered that Rome’s roads and pavements are uneven and many have cobbles, which caused problems for our canes. We asked directions for the nearest metro in both English and Italian and were eventually guided there by a local. Once inside, we stood still with our canes until someone asked us if we required a help “companion”. We stated our destination, and were taken to a staff member. Several escalators later, we’d descended into the bowels of the metro and were helped onto the correct train. Rome currently only has two metro lines, A and B (although line C is under construction). We both knew that the metro and buses would be busy and provided good opportunities for robbery, a common practice in Rome. We kept our valuables close and suffered no incidence. Tatiana counted the stations and listened to the Italian announcements.

At our stop, we pushed our way through the people and alighted. However, as I was stepping off, I slipped and my left leg went between the metro and the platform – a scary moment for both of us. It’s happened to me before and I’m used to incidences occurring having travelled for many years. But Tatiana is relatively new to the game and it frightened her. However, metro staff rescued me, assisted us out the station and gave us directions to the nearby Colosseum. Although I’m blind, I like taking photographs. So after refreshments at an adjacent café, we crossed the road by listening for the quiet of traffic and followed the sound of other pedestrians. Once across the road, we discovered a large cobbled open space, which I took for Colosseum Square. We were in direct sunlight, which meant we were away from the shadow of buildings. I asked a tourist for directions to Constantine’s Arch built (315 A.D.) located on Colosseum square, and another tourist helped me take a picture. We walked forward a few metres before turning right and followed the sound of more people. We enquired about the line for the Colosseum and were told to continue passed the people, many who’d been standing in the blazing sun for over two hours to buy tickets. Being blind enabled us to skip the line and enter the Colosseum. I showed my disabled bus pass and we were allowed free admittance and received a discount on the audio guide. It’s a hand-held device containing a tactile keypad.

We were taken to the start of the self-guided tour, physically shown the direction to go and informed to complete the audio tour in approximately two hours. We were left beside a stone column on its side near the entrance in a corridor like area underneath the amphitheatre. We briefly listened to the audio guide before going in search of our first location. With our audio guide and cane in one hand and our other linked together, we followed the corridor. I tapped the right hand wall with my cane until I found steps on my right. With confirmation from an American tourist, we ascended the flights of large steep steps, following them until they finished. Once up, we listened to the first commentary about the Colosseum. I took photos of the area, using the walls and pillars as a guide. The audio guide was somewhat confusing, as it gave no directions to each place relating to the commentary. Initially, I was unsure if we were on the correct level, and when we asked other tourists for the numbers relating to the audio guide, nobody understood our request. Eventually, we met a tourist with a map corresponding to the guide and the lady helped us to the next place.

The upper gallery gave views over the Colosseum’s arena where circus animal entertainment and gladiatorial contests occurred. The animals and gladiators were held in cages and brought into the arena through trap doors in the floor. These doors and underground tunnels are now visible. We continued following the audio guide and feeling the walls and ruins as we went. I showed Tatiana a huge column and she measured its circumference by walking around it. We located the panoramic terrace, which apparently gave good views towards the Roman forum, Constantines Arch and the ancient Temple of Venus and Roma. We learnt about the seat sectioning according to class with the carved names of important individuals still noticeable in the marble.

The Colosseum’s Construction began in 72 A.D. under Empiror Vespasian and was completed in 80 A.D. under Empiror Titus. It’s considered one of the greatest structures of Roman architecture and engineering. We enjoyed it for its size, rough textures of various building materials, such as stone, brick and marble, and absorbed the information, gaining an impression of the Colosseum at the height of roman imperialism. We briefly explored the lower level, assisted by a couple of staff members before exiting into the hot blazing sun and returning to the only café in the near vicinity.

Later, we visited the Trevi Fountain, one of Rome’s most famous attractions, full of atmosphere and people. We entered the Colosseo Metro and asked about a train to Trevi Fountain. A staff member informed us we needed a bus and took us to one outside the metro entrance. We told the bus driver our destination and hoped he’d remember as the bus was packed! It was early evening, around 7.00 pm. Two People gave us their seats and another local told us when to alight. However, we were dropped a few streets from the fountain in question. Tatiana asked in Italian and eventually we found someone who spoke both Italian and English. The lady helped us cross several streets and told us to continue walking straight, the most common advice we received in Rome! We finally arrived in a pedestrian street with many restaurants and continued asking for the Trevi Fountain. We reached a dead end, the street being blocked by a large van. A local man took us around a barrier and up to Trevi Square. Tatiana heard the fountain and we walked towards the noise. We pushed through the large crowd and moments later our canes hit a barrier and we were beside the Trevi Fountain.

We followed the voices of several tourists, descended a slight slope, carefully climbed down three irregular shaped stone steps and approached the large rectangular fountain. Tatiana and I sat on the small wall and dipped our fingers into the cool water. The fountain itself was in front of us and slightly to the right. I followed the small wall towards the fountain’s sound and asked a tourist to take our picture. An American guy described the fountain with ‘the restive sea horse’, a statue of Neptune in a sea shell chariot being pulled by two sea horses, one calm and the other restless, representing the changing moods of the sea. We sat on the small wall and relaxed in the company of the musical Trevi Fountain.

Later, we had dinner in the pedestrian street we had walked earlier. We shared a pizza topped with cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms and Italian sausage, washed down with lemonade, followed by the exquisite ice cream gelato in a nearby parlour. As we finished our meal, it began to rain – some people would have a wet meal that night! Restaurant tables are invariably outside and usually consist of wooden tables and chairs, the tables decorated with fine linen, candles and a rose – the Italians appear both friendly and romantic. It was extremely hot both day and night during our stay, hence dining in the open.

We returned to our hostel by bus, locating the bus stop with help from a delightful Irish couple. They were on their honeymoon and exploring Italy.

This is a brief account of the activities of two blind people exploring Rome. An interesting city, full of history, ruins, friendly and helpful Italians, good food and wonderful piazzas and fountains.

I’m currently 32 years old, live in Teignmouth, Devon, UK I’ve visited sixty countries, all 50 US States, 10 Canadian Provinces and every continent. My travel website is www.tonythetraveller.com Facebook: Tony the Traveller My first travel book: Seeing the World My Way Published by Silverwood Originals Priced at £8.99 (paperback) and also as an e-book Available in UK book stores. www.silverwoodbooks.com/my-way http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seeing-World-Way-Tony-Giles/dp/1906236380/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314177576&sr=8-1 I enjoy travelling, walking by the sea, dining with Tatiana, listening to classic rock music and reading historical fiction.

Since we last spoke, I ventured through southern Bolivia on a four day jeep tour, visiting abandoned mining villages, rock canyons, hot springs, volcanoes, mountains and dry desert. The highlights being the many lagoons, geysers and the amazing salt flat Uyuni de Salar. I completed my exploration of Bolivia along its ‘Gringo trail’ with a brief stop in Potosi, one of the highest cities in the world. Tourists can take a guided mine tour to see for themselves the horrors of South American mining and exploitation of people. I spent a day wandering the city centre, found little, but enjoying walking/climbing the steep streets and hills. Finally, I visited La Paz, Bolivia’s political capital, Sucre is its historical-administrative seat.

I spent three days in La Paz, soaking up the atmosphere of the Wild Rover Backpackers, an Irish owned establishment with first class facilities. Entering the hostel off the grimy, noisy, dirty and crowded streets of La Paz was like switching between different worlds! The hostel was an excellent place to party, meet young western travellers and unwind after tiresome travel, but it was not authentic Bolivia, not at all. I Explored the city with its main squares, large impressive churches and garish markets in the company of an Irish couple I met in Potosi and two girls from Northern Ireland who I had met previously. Hiking the steep hills hurt my legs and punished my lungs, but it was what I enjoyed. Plus, it was the last place of altitude I faced on this trip.

I eventually departed Bolivia and headed to Peru. I spent one fruitless night in the small town of Puno, on the shore of Lake Titicaca. I stayed at a delightful family-run hostel before taking a long and bumpy-twisty night bus to Lima, Peru’s capital. The bus journey took over twenty-six hours although, the coach was reasonably comfortable and snacks were provided.

I stayed near the beach in the Barranco district of the huge metropolis and spent my few days in Peru with a lovely guy named Paul, a friend of my girlfriend’s. They both share the same disability, although Paul has little trouble with his sight, unlike Tatiana who is totally blind.

Pictures will be available of Paul and I together shortly after this blog is published.

We spent an evening by the ocean near Barranco’s main square, taking photos before having dinner. I tried cow’s heart, which was chewy and tasted slightly like liver, not my favourite delicacy!

The following day, Paul and I explored the city centre, visiting San Martin Square with its large equestrian statue and fountains and Republic square with its famous political buildings, more fountains and a huge national flag. We witnessed the changing of the guard, a colourful affair with much military music in the hot sun, a wonderful spectacle for the huge crowd.

We walked one of the bridges over the Rímac River and visited a water park with many more beautiful fountains. I love the sound of flowing water.

I spent time with Paul and met and had several meals with his lovely family. Paul’s dog is crazy! He showed me an iguana, which thankfully was stuffed – its claws were very sharp!

I also visited a charity organization supporting deaf-blind people called Sense during my brief stay in Lima. I went to an organized event in London in January 2011 and discovered they had overseas projects, including one in Lima. Therefore, when the opportunity presented itself, I decided to meet some of the staff and discover what occurred in Peru. I met a brother and sister, called Antonio and Monica, who were both deaf-blind. We communicated through Ricardo, the head of Sense Peru and one of his colleagues. It was an interesting challenge. I conversed with Ricardo, who spoke excellent English. He translated for his colleague who knew a little deaf-blind sign language. This is done using the hand. The question I asked or answer I gave was first presented to Monica who informed her brother Ricardo. We communicated like this for just over an hour. I noticed immediately upon our opening conversation that they were both intelligent. Ricardo had some sight and was able to do a menial job. Monica had no sight or hearing, but had become educated before she lost the ability of both senses.

It was a fascinating learning experience and demonstrates that almost anything is possible. I also visited a school to discover how deaf-blind children learn and were supported in Peru. The government plays no role in this support and schools are private and equipment is bought by generous donations from wealthy individuals and small groups.

The education centres around sensory stimulation by using different shaped animals and large inflatable balls and blocks among other items.

A unique experience and insight into disability in South America.

Since April, I have been in Greece with Tatiana. We briefly explored the island of Salamina near Athens. However, as we alighted from the ferry, the heavens opened and the only church of note was closed.

We spent a weekend on Paros Island in the Cyclades, walking and exploring in the heat. We visited the large church of Our Lady of 100 Gates just before a wedding began, that was fun!

Tatiana and I explored Ireland together in early May, visiting Belfast, capital of Northern Ireland, where we took a coach tour to Giant Causeway, which was disappointing, especially as there wasn’t much to touch or walk on. The rope bridge event was good even though we became wet and exhausted during the walk to and from the bridge.

We also took a ‘Black taxi’ tour around Belfast monuments and wall murals and the former trouble spots during the violent times.

In the Republic of Ireland, we had four days in Dublin, dodging yet more rain and trying to find places that were open to the public. Our trip occurred a week before the Queen of England was due to visit. Thus, many places were off-limits, including the castle tour and the Trinity College library with its book of Kells, most annoying. We had delicious Irish stew in a couple of different pubs and heard traditional music, blues and some jazz, which filled our spirits. The final stop was in Cork City at the bottom of southern Ireland. We experienced little of the city, using Cork more as a base to visit other places such as Clonakilty for a Michael Collins guided tour and Blarmey where we visited the castle to kiss the famous Blarmey stone. Tatiana and I ascended over 200 narrow, winding steps to the castle ramparts. I managed to kiss the stone lying on my back, while Tatiana kissed thin air. She did manage to touch it.

We are about to meet up in Rome for a few days 18th-22nd July and embark on a tour of the east coast of the US in September.

That’s all for now.

Tonythetraveller.com

Enjoy the photos and videos of Antarctica and South America which will appear later this month.

I am still on the road in beautiful South America.  Since my problems, which I have managed to overcome with much help from several kind and thoughtful travellers, I have been to Paraguay and back to Argentina. From Salta I headed to Posadas a quiet small city on the border with Paraguay for one night then across a small bridge by bus to Encarnación, south-east Paraguay. I couched surfed with a cool guy named Claudio and his friends for two nights and visited an early 18th Century Jesuit ruins, where Guarane Indians lived and worked, making rock carvings of nearby flora and fauna.  After this I took a six hour night bus to Asunción, Paraguay’s capital where I stayed for three nights. I took a chance and just arrived at the only hostel around 7 am. Luckily the owner was home and for once did not ignore the door bell. A cool American named David from Oregon originally. Although he was busy organising the hostel, he gave me good directions to the city centre and to nearby shops and cafés, plus the park across from the hostel.  Asunción was hot and humid, in the mid 30s. After my sweaty stay there, I planned to go north to Filadelfia, but due to heavy rain and the outbreak of Dengue Fever, which would kill me because I have very low immune system after my kidney transplant, I returned south to Argentina and once again Salta.
 
My one night in Salta was quiet with dinner in the city with a couple of girls from Canada, a guy from Poland and a Romanian guy. How times have changed travel wise, 10 years ago and maybe even only 5 years ago you would not have met many people from East Europe travelling and certainly not in South America.
 
Next I once again headed north, this time to a small town named Tilcara where I eventually stayed for four nights in a great small crazy hostel come house.  Apart from the fact that the house permanently smelt of cigarette smoke it was lovely and the people great, warm and friendly.  The small town is surrounded by hills, I spent my first evening walking around the centre, checked out the only plaza and eventually found a restaurant and had a steak. I met a lovely couple from Buenos Aires and they helped me order and kept me company and even dropped me back at the hostel.  I spent my second day walking around and just relaxing, taking photos and enjoying the small market in the square. On my third day I went on a hike to Wider Cave, or Windy Cave. This was a four kilometre walk hike over rough rocky terrain with a cool native guide named Diego. He told me about the different plants and how one named Molle could be used in a bath to ease aches and muscle pains. We climbed and I stumbled hitting my knees and feet many times. At one point Diego had to drag me up an almost vertical incline. I had fun stepping over rocks and stretching my legs over rocks and huge stones. The trail twisted and turned and undulated constantly. It was hard work and I drank water constantly and huffed and puffed. Eventually after climbing up what seemed like hundreds of rocks and walking crablike between several stones with a huge drop on one side, we reached the cave.  The first cave was quite large and we were able to stand. However, we then had to get on all fours and crawl through a narrow rock tunnel to reach the other side of the cave. Once I was able to almost stand, we climbed through a tiny window like gap and I was able to sit on a rock ledge and enjoy the open expanse with mountains in front and the cool air on my face. We returned the same way. and the descent with me constantly creating avalanches was even harder The sun appeared and later discovered I had been sun and wind burnt.  Two days later I headed into Bolivia and my 58th country.

I had to take a bus from Tilcara to the Argentine border then find a bridge and walk into Bolivia. It was straightforward enough. Although once in Bolivia the atmosphere changed abruptly. People pushed and shoved, there was more noise and shops had their products for sale on the street. I was lucky enough to meet a lady and her boyfriend I had met briefly in Tilcara and they helped me find the bus station in Villasun where I caught a bus to Tupiza. Tupiza is the gateway to the Bolivian desert and the Salar salt flats. I head there tomorrow Monday 21st March for a four day Jeep tour of adventure and off-roading. It should be an exciting trip with much wildlife and fun.  Tupiza has little to offer apart from a nice market and a small square and church. It’s a nice relaxing place for two nights and one day. Horse riding is available and some walks to nearby canyons.

More to come soon, Tony the Traveller

Since the last blog, I have been to a few places and had several problems, some of my own design and others completely beyond my control! My trip up the coast of Chile hit a snag one evening when I attempted to get a bus from Valparaiso slightly north of Santiago to Arica, Chile’s most northerly city. I was informed that no buses were available until Monday, and it was only Saturday evening. I then asked about buses to San Pedro de Alcama, but again was told no buses were available, this time until Tuesday. Therefore, I returned to Santiago for one night and caught a bus to Mendoza, Argentina and wine country. This was an 8 hour bus ride through towering peaks and bumpy unpaved twisting roads. I enjoyed the journey immensely, feeling the bumps and twists. Mendoza is a nice quiet pleasant city with a main large plaza (square), surrounded by 4 smaller plazas. I found Mendoza has the best pavements of all the cities I have visited in Argentina thus far!! After a couple of pleasant days strolling the streets and visiting the cafes I headed north to Salta where the problems began…

The bus journey to Salta was meant to be an uneventful 18 hour ride but turned into over 20 hours and a change of buses. Something was obviously wrong with the bus I was on from the beginning as only 2 hours after leaving Mendoza, one of the bus personnel began banging things under the bus!! We did eventually continue the journey. However, only 70 miles (100 km) from Salta and about an hour from my destination, all passengers were told to disembark and board another bus. In my haste to gather all my gear and ensure I caught the next bus, I left my bag of medication, which had been on the floor between my feet all day, and only realised I was without it once in Salta. A guy from Spain who was also travelling, helped me to visit the company to explain my problem as he spoke Spanish and I only have a few words of the language. I was informed that it might arrive the next day, but not to be too hopeful. I decided that I needed to find a hospital and get replacements as it seemed unlikely my medication would reappear. Another backpacker from Italy accompanied me to a hospital that specialised in kidney conditions the following day after hostel staff had discovered where I might get assistance. The hospital had the required medication but the next problem was that it cost $750 for a month’s supply of 5 medications, something I could not afford. However, I was told that I might be able to get a week’s supply of the anti-immune medication for free. When I visited the doctor, he was able to give me a month of anti-immune tablets for free – unbelievable and extremely kind. The other meds I purchased for about $50. That evening, as I went to buy my bus ticket for my next journey, I discovered that my medication had been found and nothing taken, amazing. However, it was at this point my next problem arose! I tried to take money from the cash machine to buy my bus ticket to Posadas on the boarder with Paraguay, but the card refused to give me money. When I attempted to buy the ticket with my card, it was refused. I visited several other banks with one of the hostel staff named Carlos, but the same result, I was refused money. This meant having to email and then Skype my Mum, and work out what was wrong with the card if it was blocked or broken or it was the banks in Salta. I eventually established that the bank had blocked my card because I had gone from Chile back to Argentina. Through Mum’s help and Skype I was able, after 4 attempts, to get my bank to remove the block and use my card.

Salta is a more difficult city to travel around, although it is like many cities in South America on a grid system so it is just a case of counting blocks and asking for the name of the street. San Martin seems to be the main street in most Argentinean cities as he was the main general who gained Argentina independence from Spain in 1810. One of the main attractions in Salta is to climb up a hill by way of 1026 steps to a view overlooking the city and its mountains. I had threatened to climb these steps for several days and on final morning in the city did so. I first got my directions from Hostel Duendes at San Joan Street 189, where I had stayed and walked north for 7 blocks along Santa Fae Street then east for 3 blocks on Belgrano Street. This street gradually lead up hill to the Monument of Guemes, a notable local hero in the war of independence. Once at the moment, I managed to get a security guard to take a picture then set off to find the steeps up the hill. This was slightly confusing at first as the steps I found were large individual long blocks, that lead to a road. Nevertheless, once across the road, I was shown to where the real climb began. Rock steps that ascended in groups of ones and twos before larger groups of six and seven. The escalator twisted and turned up the mountain making it difficult for me to find the next series of steps. As I climbed the drop one side of me or the other became great and I nearly came off the step trail several times, slipping twice and falling onto grass at one point. I sweated and grunted my way, slipping, stumbling and banging my feet up the staircase. It was great fun and an enjoyable challenge in a peaceful setting with trees along the route. Two thirds of the way up, I was again confronted by a road which confused me for several minutes and it was only with the help of a girl from Canada that I found the final set of steps which took me to the top of the small mountain. I passed two man-made waterfalls along the way and added them to my collection of many photos from this trip.

Once at the top, I took in the view briefly, feeling the nice breeze and warm sun, before taking the cable car town to the bottom, which cost 15 pesos. I then got directions to the main plaza, 9th July and had a meal before catching my bus to Posadas.

I spent one evening in Posadas, which was hot and had little to offer in the way of attractions. I took a bus to the hostel from the bus station and got lost trying to locate the actual building. It was a Sunday and few people were about. I was now in the tropics. The next day I headed to my 58th country.

Paraguay

I had arranged to couch surf in Paraguay, at least that was the plan. I caught a mid-morning bus from Posadas across the border to the small city of Encarnación. This took about an hour. I was dropped on a street in the centre of Encarnación and had to find someone who had a mobile phone in order to meet up with Claudio, the guy I was staying with. Eventually I found a lady in a shop with a phone and 10 minutes later Claudio met me. He works in civil engineering and after dropping me at the house he shared with 3 other Paraguayans he returned to work. I met the other guys, Raul, Joseph and William, who nicknamed me Pony, because I’m so short! I just hung out that first night and spent my only real day exploring the river front in the morning and visiting an 18th century mission in the afternoon. It was about 25 miles (40 km) from Encarnación in the small city of Trinidad and took over an hour on a small rickety old bus with no air condition to get there. I was dropped on the side of a road with only broken bricks for a pavement. I had to walk 5 dangerous blocks in blazing sun and heat to find the mission. Once there, I was taken around the remains of the church and sacristy where I felt many pieces of rock art that the Guarani local natives had designed. I felt faces and flowers and leaves carved into the sandstone bricks that had been used in the church, it was most interesting. I later returned on the same hot smelly bus after chatting with some of the guides that worked there. That evening I caught a night bus for a 5 hour journey to Asuncion, Paraguay’s capital and took a chance the hostel would be open and have a bed available. I took a taxi but was taken to the wrong hotel twice before another taxi driver found it. I later discovered I could have taken a bus. I arrived at the hostel, an old house which had one dorm room with 4 beds, around 7.30 am and luckily found the owner in. He, for once, did not ignore the door bell and I was able to get a bed for a couple of nights, which turned into 3. He was a bit surprised to find a blind man from England with little Spanish wanting to stay. However, David from American was helpful and kind. He gave me good directions to the nearest supermarket and told me about an internet cafe and food place named Hesharms, run by a guy from Siria. I crashed for most of the first day and visited a nearby park in the afternoon. It was intensely hot in the mid 30s Celsius (90s Fahrenheit) and very humid. I visited Hesharms cafe and found him a kind and interesting guy. I met one lady there who spoke some English and gave out some of my promotional cards about my book. On my second day, I had to go and find a place that sold hearing aid batteries as mine had run out and only one hearing aid was now functioning fully. David thought this might prove impossible as he said Paraguay is a very poor country and anything that cost or is specific might be not available. However, I headed for an electronic place and they helped me find another place that happened to sell hearing aids. Once I had my batteries, I set off to find the Palace of López. This not open to the public as it is where Paraguay’s president Calos Antonia Lopes resides. However, it is a lovely old colonial building and worth a picture. I eventually found it with help and then after my photo headed to the Paraguay river. I walked around feeling grass with my stick and hot sun shinning on my face. I eventually walked back into the city and found the plaza with the Pantheon of Heroes, a large building in the square with plaques and tombs inside. I had a brief explore before heading to a bar for cheese Empanadas and Sprite for lunch. Then I walked the 14 or so blocks with dust, sand, holes and gravel, not to mention broken pavement slabs back to the hostel. I sweated and struggled up the hill in the sun, getting burnt and bitten in the process. Back at the hostel, David informed me about a Dengue fever epidemic that had broken out in Brazil and in north Paraguay and Bolivia. I was planning to go north to Filadelfia in the Chaco, a mostly dry area of land in north Paraguay where many natives live. However, I knew Dengue would kill me if I caught it so I made plans to return to Salta, Argentina. Tomorrow, 14th March I go to Purmamarca, a small town in north Argentina for one night then head to southern Bolivia for the last 2 weeks of this tremendous Latin America adventure.

Tony the Traveller

For the last month I have been travelling through Argentina and Chile. There is a question and a debate that comes from this travelling. I have visited Buenos Aires and Ushuaia, Argentina for the second time and discovered Puerto Williams, Santiago, Isla Negra and Valparaiso, Chile for the first time. I also revisited Punta Arenas, Chile twice. The question is, which is better, Argentina or Chile?

They are both different but similar countries. Argentina is larger geographically whereas Chile is longer. Chileans speaker faster and slightly different Spanish than Argentinians, at least that is my impression. Argentina is generally less expensive than Chile. The bus journeys are just as long in both countries and they share the magical wonder that is Patagonia.

The people, well the majority of both Chileans and Argentinians I’ve met, have been wonderful, kind and friendly, eager to laugh and helpful with directions. I would say the Chilean people are possibly slightly more friendly because I have met them in smaller cities and I have met more Argentinians in the large cities. However, on the whole, they are as warm as each other. I don’t know if I could tell the difference between a Chilean and an Argentinian if met them together but there must be slight differences in voice and temperament.

The cities and towns are different in each country due partly to the geography. Argentina has the space for large populated cities like Mendoza, where I am at present, whereas the narrowness of Chile makes for smaller towns with coastal features and/or steep streets. Valparaiso, north of Santiago, on the coast is a fine example. The hostels also vary, but on the whole I have found hostels in both countries unique and relaxed with few rules and no door keys!!

Puerto Williams in perhaps the most southern town in the world, although it is disputed. All I will say is that it is very far south and on an island south-east of Ushuaia. Puerto Williams is part of Chile and there is a small naval presence. I would describe it like a frontier town, gravel roads with mostly wooden buildings. The town is coastal but with no beach and two small harbours, one being a yacht marina. I found it a pleasant stay for two nights. A lady named Loreto owns a hippy café named Cafe Angle, which anyone who visits must check out. The food is good and reasonable.

For a capital city, Santiago is not too bad, the main plaza, square is worth a visit, and the Park San Cristobal with the statue of the Virgin Mary at the top of a small cable car ride is also worth visiting, even if it is touristy!!

My favourite place visited on this South American trip so far has to be Isla Negra. A small town of roughly 500 souls, it grew out of the fame of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, who built his last house here and lived there on and off during the 1960s and early 1970s. A tour of the house, which looks out over the sea, is given in English and Spanish and is excellent. It is an amazing place full of collectable items and atmosphere. Neruda wanted it built like a ship and the doorways and stairs are very small! An amazing interesting man of the mid-twentieth century and definitely worth further investigation.

Neruda’s house in Valparaiso is also interesting and visitors can take an audio guided tour at their leisure through the house that he lived in during the early 1960s.

I stayed at the Poet Madness Hostel in Isla Negra with a lady named Sandra and her daughter Pea. It was a really great experience. A wooden house in the countryside up dirt road tracks above the small town. You descend rock steps, cross a wooden bridge, ascend more rock steps, then climb up wooden steps on to a wooden porch and that is before entering the house. Once inside, you are greeted by the lovely aroma of burning incense candle and the scattered objects of Sandra’s personal collection. Decorative lampshades to coloured stones and necklaces. Cushions dot the floor and the atmosphere reminded me of the hippy communes I had read about of the 1960s counter-culture generation. Truly relaxing and homely.

Sandra refused to take my money for any of her hospitality, which included an evening meal of beans and bread, cheese and cookies for breakfast. Tea was offered frequently. I met Pilar, a lady from Santiago, who was with her lovely daughter Margarita, aged 10. The kids became my friend and looked after me for the evening.

I visited a friend of Sandra, a man named Roberto, who has wooden sculptures in his garden. After feeling up all the sculptures on view I entered the large wooden house to hear a band practice for a weekend gig. They let me play the drums and everyone applauded my efforts!! The young people were all really friendly and cool. I gained a small insight into Chilean small town life and also received a cultural and social experience.

Some days later I met-up with Sandra by chance in Valparaiso, she just saw me on a street corner, amazing, especially in a city like Valparaiso with its many hills and winding streets that go in all directions!! Now I am in Mendoza, Argentina, a nice city with several squares, hot weather and friendly people. I next head to Salta then towards the Paraguay boarder.

That is all for now, more picture available soon. Tonythetraveller