Cusco and the Inca Trail, Peru, October 2023

Tony stood in the ruins of Tambomachay fortress, an Inca archaeological site near Cusco. In the background are terraces ascending up a slope. The terraces are supported by distinctive Inca stone walls: the stones used to build the walls are often irregularly shaped but have been cut to fit very tightly with the adjoining stones without mortar. To the left, water can be seen flowing down these terraces through small stone-cut channels.

Another view of the Tambomachay fortress ruins which are located roughly 4 miles (6 km) from Cusco. In view are man-made terraces as well as the ruins of a few stone buildings. Another group of visitors can be seen standing together in the foreground.

Looking across the Inca ruins of Puka Pukara, which means Red Fortress, probably due to the red colour of the rocks at dusk. The photo shows the remains of substantial stone walls forming buildings and terraces. The mostly bare rocky slopes of a mountain can be seen beyond. Puka Pukara was used for military and administrative purposes. It overlooks the Cusco valley.

Tony standing at Puka Pukara. He was walking through the village of Puka Pukara and its ruins for Llama-Alpaca feeding. The site is located roughly 4-5 miles (7 km) from Cusco.

A group of alpacas being fed at Awanacancha, a weaving centre and alpaca farm, in or near Puka Pukara village and ruins. This is a cultural project that is presented as a living museum of the Andes. Various single storey village or farm buildings can be seen in the background.

Tony feeding an alpaca some green vegetation at Awanacancha alpaca farm. Other members of Tony’s group can also be seen feeding alpacas.

A rock formation at Qenko archaeological site. A monolith, probably formed naturally, stands in the foreground. Tony walked through Qenko archaeological site which is located in the Sacred Valley roughly 4 miles (6 km) northeast of Cusco.

Tony with his guide Leo emerging from a rock tunnel passageway at Qenko archaeological site. The passageway has stone steps cut in the natural rock. Qenko is one of the largest huacas (holy places) in the Cusco region. Many huacas were based on naturally occurring rock formations. It was believed to be a place where sacrifices and mummification took place.

Tony and Leo descending a steep path at Sacsayhuamán archaeological site (there are various other spellings including Saqsaywaman). Natural rock can be seen along side the path. Trees can be seen directly ahead, but in the top left of the photo, the city of Cusco can also partially be seen, away in the valley below. The site is at an altitude of 3,701 metres (12,142 ft), and was built as a walled citadel in the 15th century, under ruler Sapa Inca Pachacuti and his successors. Today many of the rocks used to build the site have been lost with only stones too large to move remaining.

Tony and his guide next to a road. They are alongside to a large sign for Sacsayhuamán National Archaeological site (Parque Arqueologico Nacional Saqsaywaman).

Tony’s group walking along a grassy path with Sacsayhuamán archaeological site visible on a hillside ahead. Long stone walls built using large rocks are just visible. Many of the walls appear to form a zigzag pattern. The other people in Tony’s group were Heidi, Doc Liz, Will, Kalpesh, James, Wendy, Saj, Rachel, Liz, Jo, Kat, Nick and Norman.

A cobbled track leading up to the ruins at Sacsayhuamán. Tony and his guide Leo can just be seen below heading up the track. A signpost pointing to Cusco 1 kilometre away stands in the foreground. The buildings of Cusco are visible in the distance down in the valley.

Another view of Tony and his Peruvian guide Leo heading up the cobbled track to Sacsayhuamán archaeological site. After visiting the site Tony and his group walked all the way down to Plaza des Armas in Cusco, where they had dinner at a restaurant called Nuna Ray Mi.

View from a lookout with views over the town of Urubamba in the Sacred Valley. Mountains can be seen in the distance. The Urubamba River can be seen running through the town below.

Another view over Urubamba town from the lookout. In the foreground agave plants can be seen growing. These are probably Agave americana (also known as maguey). They look similar to cacti: each plant contains a clump of long succulent pointed leaves with sharp spines running down the sides. The leaves are typically 90 cm to 150 cm in length.

Tony at the lookout overlooking Urubamba in the valley below. The mountains beyond are part illuminated by the sun and part shrouded by cloud.

A decorative map on an irregularly-shaped multi-sided wooden board. It shows the Urubamba Valley (Sacred Valley) with the Urubamba River and various important sites such as Machu Picchu illustrated. Again taken at the lookout looking the town of Urubamba.

Tony eating an ice cream cone. He is with fellow hikers sitting on wooden benches under an open shelter. This is a refreshment stop along the route. It’s the first stop along the trail after roughly an hour’s walk/hike along the undulating gravelly and rocky terrain.

View outside the cafe with bottles of water and other refreshments for sale. The trail can be seen heading up hill in front. It is paved with uneven stones and there are stone walls along the sides. This is an example of what the Inca trail and Inca road system looks like from its inception over 500 years ago to the present. Tony attempted the Classic Inca Trail Hike to Machu Picchu, but The Classic Inca Trail is but a small portion of the 45,000km network of Inca roads connecting the whole empire to Cusco.

Tony sitting relaxing on grass with his rucksack along side. Other hikers can be seen resting in the background. This was taken at the lunch stop in a clearing below high mountains and rock steps up to terraces. Reached after roughly 3-4 hours hiking.

Tony on the trail with two local guides/helpers who are carrying large rucksacks. There is a stone wall running along the edge of the trail. Further back are terraces cut into the slope supported by more stone walls.

Tony continuing to head up the trail with a guide at his side. The trail is cut into the side of a steep slope which is covered with scrub vegetation. The mountains ahead are obscured by mist.

Tony, again with two guides/helpers, nearing the first camp site on the trail, situated at 3,000 metres above sea level at Wayllabamba. The camp is approximately 12 km (8 miles) from KM82. The photo shows the trail at this point passing through denser vegetation.

Tony preparing for the second day hiking the Inca Trail. Tony is in the foreground and other members of his party can be seen getting ready behind. A large information board with a map of the Inca Trail can also be seen along side: it shows landmarks along the route with altitudes and simple illustrations. Taken on the trail on the opposite side of the river from the village of Wayllapampa/Wayllabamba (“grassy plain” ).

Group photo of Tony’s hiking party: Tony is in the foreground and there are about 14 people shown in total. This is at the start of the second day’s hike. A steep mountain slope covered with small trees and scrub can be seen in the middle distance, plus a large open-side building to the left.

This is the first checkpoint/crossroad on this section of the ‘Classic’ Inca trail where it meets with the Mollepata trail, the extremely steep climb, which eventually leads to Dead Woman’s Pass at 4200 metres. The location where this photo is taken is at roughly 3,100 metres above sea level, close to Wayllapampa. At this point, the trail that eventually leads to Machu Picchu turns west and begins ascending along a tributary of the Cusichaka River, gaining in steepness, roughness and altitude until it arives at Warmiwañusqa (“dead woman” Pass).

Tony riding on a horse along the first part of the Inca trail that he and his group hiked the previous day, 17th October. He is on an unpaved track with simple single-storey buildings with corrugated iron roofs at the side and mountain slopes partially visible beyond. Tony turned back as he found the steep climb and rough terrain and large uneven rock steps too difficult.

Tony again on the horse. The horse is being controlled by a local guide who is holding a rope which is attached to the horse. In the background a substantial stone wall at the side of the trail with notches or crenellations running along the top: this was probably originally built by the Inca civilisation.

View down into a valley from the Inca trail with the remains of the Inca site of Llactapata visible on the left side. Llactapata, located about 5 kilometres (3.1 miles) east of Machu Picchu, is thought to have been an important rest stop and roadside shrine on the journey to Machu Picchu. High on a ridge between the Ahobamba and Santa Teresa drainages, it was likely part of a network of interrelated administrative and ceremonial sites around Machu Picchu and probably had an astronomical function during solstices and equinoxes. The site was first reported by American academic, explorer and politician, Hiram Bingham III (November 19, 1875-June 6, 1956) in 1912. But it wasn’t properly explored and mapped until the Thomson and Ziegler expedition of 2003.

Another closer view of Llactapata seen from the Inca Trail. This Inca site is built into a steep mountain slope at the foot of a valley with a river running close by. The river is a tributary of the Urubamba River. The photo shows a series of terraces cut into the mountain side with the main part of the site at the top. This is made-up of a substantial cluster of excavated stone buildings with interconnecting streets and passageways.

Tony with a local guide named Rosa, crossing a river using a suspension bridge. The bridge is mostly made of wood with metal support cables. It appears wide enough for horses but not motor vehicles. This is near where the hike along the Inca trail to Machu Picchu begins. This is where Tony left the horse. The river is the Urubamba or one of its tributaries.

View of the river looking from the suspension bridge. The river is not particularly wide but appears to have a powerful flow with rapids visible. The sides are lined with large rocks and boulders. It is flowing down a narrow valley. A series of mountains can be seen away in the distance disappearing into the mist. From here, Tony and Rosa took a taxi to Ullantaytambo.

Again looking from the suspension bridge this time in the opposite direction where the valley becomes wider. There is a small settlement to the left containing a few houses and other structures. There are trees and bushes in the valley, but the mountains beyond are more barren with dispersed small trees and bushes only visible on the lower slopes.

Tony on a path leading from the small budget hotel where he stayed, It is located near to the train station in Ollantaytambo. The path passes through a garden with a lawn, outdoor seating and flowering plants. Alongside is a tall shrub with red flowers. The lower slopes of mountains can be seen away in the middle distance. Ollantaytambo is a town and Inca Archaeological Site in the Sacred Valley, some 72 km (45 miles), by road, northwest of Cusco.

Another view of Tony in the hotel garden.

Tony on Ollantaytambo railway station platform waiting to board the tourist train from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu Pueblo Station. Other passengers are also waiting and a train is standing on the opposite track. Trains run from Poroy, Cuzco station, through Ollantaytambo station to Machupicchu Pueblo Station and back. Machu Picchu Town is also known as Aguas Calientes. This small, modern tourist town is some 6 km from Machu Picchu archaeological site.

Tony and other passengers with luggage are queuing to board the train. Ollantaytambo railway station is in the Sacred Valley of the Incas or Urubamba Valley and the foothills of the surrounding mountains can be seen beyond.

Tony now seated on board the train. There is a good view out of the window: this tourist train has extra large windows. The train is passing through the Urubamba Valley (Valley of the Incas). The steep barren rocky slopes at the foot of a mountain can be seen along side. There are a few small buildings down the edge of the valley.

Again the view through the train window. The Urubamba River is flowing immediately alongside the train. The river bed is quite narrow but deep and rocky. Plants, including cacti, can be seen growing on the river banks. A mountain starts rising up immediately beyond the river. The Sacred Valley, running generally west to east, is understood to include everything along the Urubamba River between the town and Inca ruins at Písac and Machu Picchu, 100 kilometres (62 miles) distant.

Another shot of the Urubamba River as the train travels up the valley. Here the river can be seen through gaps in a row of tall narrow trees.

Tony sitting on board the train. The large window along side is providing a good view of the Urubamba Valley (Valley of the Incas). The surrounding mountain slopes are steep and rocky with little vegetation. The valley is greener, with shrubs and dispersed trees, especially along the banks of the Urubamba.

Another excellent view of the Urubamba Valley from the train. The river is still immediately along side with the mountains towering beyond.

View down the train corridor. A man and woman, train staff, in traditional multi-coloured local dress are passing by. They presented a story of Inca heroic and romantic folklore.

View across the archaeological site of Machu Picchu. The former city and citadel sits in a dramatic location on a ridge between two mountains: Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. The whole site is built on terraces that have been cut into the steep mountain slopes. Some of these terraces can be seen in the photo, supported by dry-stone walls: some are covered with grass and others contain the remains of stone buildings. The peak of Huayna Picchu can be seen ahead, forming the northern boundary of the city itself. Its protruding summit has very steep rocky sides that descend up to 550 metres down into the Urubamba Valley. Out of view below, the Urubamba River meanders around Huayna Picchu and the city on three sides. Looking beyond, the site provides spectacular views of the surrounding peaks and valleys disappearing off into the clouds. The landscape is predominantly green, with vegetation clinging to the steep slopes, sustained by the tropical mountain climate.

Looking towards an upper part of the former city. The terraces here are filled with buildings, and some are within compounds, called kanchas. The buildings and compounds are long and narrow, built to fit into the shape of the terrain. The buildings are built using dry-stone granite walls: the Incas were experts at a technique called ashlar, where stone blocks are precisely cut to fit together tightly without mortar. Stone steps and narrow paths and streets link the buildings and terraces together. The photo shows visitors exploring the ruins using these routes.

Photo taken sitting on a grass-covered terrace looking out over the former Inca city and citadel. A male guide is sitting in front and fellow visitors are along side. The city was built in a hidden and highly defensive location. There are very steep slopes down into the Urubamba Valley on three sides and the other side is protected by inhospitable mountain terrain.

Looking towards the southern edge of Machu Picchu. No buildings can be seen on the terraces here, which are covered with grass. Originally these terraces would have been used to grow crops. A mountain ridge extends out beyond, its slopes appear near vertical in places. More lines of mountains can be seen beyond.

Excellent view of the surrounding landscape. The settlement of Machu Picchu sits at around 2,430 metres above sea level and about 400 metres above the Urubamba River below. The peak of Putucusi can be seen directly ahead on the opposite side of the Urubamba valley. Putucusi has a distinctive round-shaped summit rising to 2,560 metres with very steep vegetation-covered sides. Further mountains can be seen rising higher into the cloud beyond. The landscape here looks natural with no man-made features at all visible ahead.

Tony standing in the foreground with a spectacular view over the remains of Machu Picchu and the peak of Huayna Picchu behind.

View of some of the around 200 buildings that cover the ruined city of Machu Picchu. Many of these buildings have been partially rebuilt to give a clearer idea of how they originally appeared. Two long straight stone stairways can be seen providing access to the different terrace levels. This part of the upper town contains some of the site’s most important buildings, including the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Three Windows.

Another impressive view over Machu Picchu. To the right, the lower part of the site can be seen. The buildings here are generally smaller and less dense. This was originally an industrial and poorer residential area. It includes storage buildings and simple houses.

Tony standing in front of a high stone wall at Machu Picchu. The wall is possibly the outside of a kancha compound. A kancha was an Inca rectangular or trapezoidal walled enclosure. Inside these enclosures there would be a common open courtyard and single-room buildings would face onto it.

Looking down on to a series of grass-covered terraces. Beyond, on the opposite side of the Urubamba Valley, a group a jagged peaks can be seen. The nearest of these peaks is Putucusi, which means ‘Happy Mountain’ in English. Further away the tops of higher peaks disappear from view into the clouds.

A group of buildings seen from above. One of the granite walls is built on top of a protruding outcrop of natural rock. The ruined buildings no longer have roofs, but many of the walls are still standing or have been rebuilt. Some of the walls have small rectangular or trapezoidal windows. Further away, to the right, a long succession of approximately 30 grass-covered terraces can be seen.

Inside a room within the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. In front, a large carved block of rock is incorporated into the walls of the building. The rock looks like an altar with a flat table-like recess cut into the top.

Tony next to a square-based stone pillar in the middle of a room. The wall behind has a row of windows and rises high to perhaps three metres or more in height.

Inside another room. The wall in front has a row of trapezoidal niches cut into it.

Looking up from the lower part of the Machu Picchu site. To the left, a long stone stairway, which is busy with visitors ascending and descending the site’s many levels. The stone outer walls of buildings run up one side of the stairway and open grass terraces on the other.

Another view across the site from below. Lines of stone buildings sit along terraces above. The peak of Machu Picchu, one of the two main peaks around which the city citadel was built, can be seen in the top left. The peak’s top is covered with scrub vegetation.

Tony standing to the right with some other members of his group. A man in an orange Galloway’s t-shirt and carrying walking poles named James is standing to the left. The Machu Picchu site can again be seen rising up in terraces in the background.

Tony next to a pair of ‘water mirrors’. The ‘water mirrors’ are circular basins carved into granite on the floor of a room. The name comes from the common theory that the basins would have been filled with water and then used to observe the reflected night sky to make astronomical observations. There are other theories about the purpose of the basins: when Hiram Bingham discovered them in 1912 he thought they were used for grinding grain, and others have suggested they may have been used for washing.

Wall niches in the room containing the ‘water mirrors’ at Machu Picchu. These trapezoidal recesses or niches are common in Inca buildings. The stonework is high quality with each individual stone cut to exactly fit with the surrounding stones.

Tony with an American guy on Machu Picchu railway station platform. He was a traveller who recognised Tony from his ‘Tony the Traveller’ t-shirt.

Tony amongst groups of tourists and locals outside the entrance to the Convent of Santo Domingo in Cusco. The lower part of the Convent’s stone bell tower can be seen to the right and a large doorway towards the left. The Convent of Santo Domingo is a Dominican convent or monastery, which was built by Spanish colonists on top of the Coricancha, the most important temple of the Inca empire. Today only fragments of the temple survive within the structure of the convent.

Tony standing in a large entrance doorway belonging to the Convent of Santo Domingo and incorporating the remains of the Coricancha Inca temple. The convent was first completed in 1610 but was destroyed by an earthquake in 1650. Construction of the current convent began in 1680 and was completed with the addition of the bell tower in the early 18th century. The structure includes stone from the temple of Coricancha, which was destroyed during the Spanish conquest. Stone from the temple was also used in the surrounding churches and grand houses.

Tony outside the Convent of Santo Domingo. In front there is a view over the adjoining formal garden: lawns, a flower bed containing roses and a small fountain are visible. Beyond the city’s buildings can be seen extending out to the surrounding hills and mountains.

Tony on a staircase within the complex containing the Convent of Santo Domingo and the remains of the Coricancha temple. Below are substantial stone walls enclosing a room that belonged to the Inca temple. The walls use ashlar masonry where each cuboid stone has been perfectly cut to fit with its adjoining stones.

Tony in a room with display cases containing Inca style pottery within the Coricancha site museum. The pottery includes colourful geometric designs some incorporating stylised human or animal faces.

Tony climbing a steep narrow stone staircase that leads up to the bell tower of the Convent of Santo Domingo.

Another view of Tony climbing up to the bell tower. The enclosing walls are made up of large stone blocks, perhaps originally from the Coricancha temple.

Tony emerging from the stone steps into the top chamber of the early 18th century bell tower belonging to the Convent of Santo Domingo. A medium-sized bell hangs in a arched recess above.

Tony looking out from the bell tower. A small part of the convent’s courtyard and surrounding cloisters can be seen below. The city is spread out beyond this.

Tony standing in another opening looking out from the bell tower of the Convent of Santo Domingo. Three bells of different sizes hang from a wooden pole above. The roofs of buildings are visible below with wooded slopes at the edge of the city in the middle distance beyond.

Another view from the bell tower. The roof of the Convent of Santo Domingo is immediately below, including the domed roof of the convent church. The buildings beyond spread out across the valley and up the sides of the mountains on the city’s edge.

Tony in front of another bell within the bell tower. This large old-looking bell has an inscription, perhaps in Latin, around its lower edge.

Another view of the large bell. It is hanging in an arched opening within the bell tower’s walls. The opening provides another excellent view out over Cusco.

Tony and Will, one of Tony’s fellow Inca trail hikers, standing in the bell tower of the Convent of Santo Domingo.

Tony sitting enjoying a drink at an outdoor café table. There is a small public square planted with flowers and trees in the background.

Tony in an alleyway at the side of the Basilica of La Merced. This Roman Catholic minor basilica and convent is located 100 meters south-west of the Plaza de Armas (the city’s main square). It belongs to the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy. The church dates from between 1651 and 1670. It replaced an earlier church destroyed by an earthquake in 1650. A side entrance to the church can be seen to the left of the photo and an arched gateway topped by a cross is in the centre behind Tony.

Tony standing in the south-east corner of Plaza San Francisco. This square is named after the Convent and Church of San Francisco, which stands in the square’s north-west corner, and is not visible in the photo. The photo shows a road running along the edge of the square. The centre of the square is raised up and accessed using steps. Market stalls can be seen within the square. This is the city’s second most important square after Plaza de Armas. During the Inca Empire it was part of Cusco’s main public open space, called the Huacaypata, and covered a larger area including the near by Plaza de Armas. It was originally surrounded by Inca palaces. After the Spanish conquest it was transformed into a public square and buildings such as mansions, cathedrals and chapels were built on top of the ruined Inca palaces.

Tony now in the south-west corner of Plaza San Francisco with the Arco de Santa Clara (Arch of Santa Clara) in the background. Arco de Santa Clara is an arched neoclassical gateway leading into the square. It was constructed in 1835 to celebrate Peru’s short-lived federation with Bolivia.

Tony sitting at a café on Calle Marqués (Marqués Street). This street runs between Plaza San Francisco and Plaza de Armas. A grand colonial-era mansion can just be seen on the opposite side of the street. This is the 16th century House of the Marquess of Saint Lorenzo of Valle Umbroso which is open as a museum.

Archaeological sites near Cusco

Inca Trail Day 1

Inca Trail Day 2

Train to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

Cusco